Introduction to Comme des Garçons
Comme des Garçons is an iconic Japanese fashion brand founded by designer Rei Kawakubo in 1969. Known for its avant-garde designs, conceptual approach, and rejection of conventional beauty standards, the brand has played a pioneering role in the fashion world. Based in Tokyo and Paris, Comme des Garçons (often abbreviated as CdG) challenges traditional ideas of clothing, often blurring the lines between art and fashion. The brand’s innovative designs have inspired countless designers and fashion enthusiasts globally, earning it a prominent place in the world of high fashion.
Rei Kawakubo: The Visionary Behind the Brand
Rei Kawakubo, the creative force behind Comme des Garçons, is one of the most influential designers of the 20th and 21st centuries. Born in Tokyo in 1942, she did not formally study fashion but rather majored in fine arts and literature at Keio University. This academic background in art and philosophy informs much of her design philosophy, which emphasizes abstraction, deconstruction, and the rejection of traditional norms.
Kawakubo’s work is often described as “anti-fashion” because she deliberately eschews trends, seasonal themes, and the concept of clothing as mere commodities. Her designs frequently feature asymmetry, unusual silhouettes, and distressed materials, challenging the wearer to rethink what fashion can be. She has consistently blurred the lines between gender in her collections, offering androgynous styles that challenge the conventional division of men’s and women’s fashion.
The Aesthetic of Comme des Garçons
Comme des Garçons is best known for its avant-garde aesthetic, often characterized by:
- Deconstruction: The brand frequently deconstructs garments, exposing seams, raw edges, and unfinished elements. This method gives the pieces a fragmented and unfinished appearance that stands in stark contrast to the polished and perfect designs of traditional haute couture.
- Unconventional Silhouettes: Comme des Garçons pushes boundaries with oversized shapes, exaggerated proportions, and unexpected volumes. Many of the garments challenge the traditional, flattering silhouettes of mainstream fashion, offering instead boxy, bulky, or even amorphous shapes that defy convention.
- Monochromatic Palettes: While the brand does experiment with color, it is most famously associated with black, which Kawakubo has used to express intellectual rigor, rebellion, and minimalism. Many collections prominently feature black, white, or neutral tones, with occasional bursts of bright, unexpected colors.
- Conceptual and Artistic Themes: Comme des Garçons collections often transcend fashion, exploring themes of identity, existentialism, gender, and societal constructs. Each show is an exploration of a deeper concept, making Kawakubo’s work resonate as much with the art world as with the fashion world.
Notable Collections
1981 Paris Debut: “Destroy”
One of the most pivotal moments in Comme des Garçons’ history was its debut in Paris in 1981. The collection, often dubbed “Destroy,” shocked the fashion world with its use of black, asymmetrical cuts, and what appeared to be torn or worn fabrics. It was a stark departure from the elegance and glamour typically associated with Paris fashion at the time. This collection introduced the West to Kawakubo’s vision and cemented CdG’s reputation as a disruptor of the fashion establishment.
1997 Collection: “Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body”
In 1997, Comme des Garçons presented one of its most influential collections, often referred to as the “lumps and bumps” collection. This collection featured padded garments with bulbous protrusions that distorted the shape of the body. It challenged the traditional notions of what was considered beautiful or flattering, sparking widespread discussion and debate in the fashion industry. The collection remains one of Kawakubo’s most iconic and has been exhibited in numerous fashion museums.
2017 Met Gala: “Art of the In-Between”
The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art honored Rei Kawakubo in 2017 with an exhibition titled “Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between.” It was a rare honor, as Kawakubo was the first living designer since Yves Saint Laurent to be celebrated with a solo exhibition at the Met. The exhibition showcased her boundary-pushing designs and explored the dualities present in her work: male/female, black/white, construction/destruction, and more. It underscored her status not only as a fashion designer but as an artist in her own right.
Comme des Garçons’ Influence on Fashion
Comme des Garçons has had an immeasurable influence on the fashion industry, particularly in shaping the rise of conceptual and avant-garde fashion. Designers such as Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, and Junya Watanabe (who also works under the CdG umbrella) have drawn inspiration from Kawakubo’s bold rejection of traditional fashion norms. The brand’s influence extends beyond Japan, affecting European and American designers and pushing the boundaries of what fashion can express.
Comme des Garçons has also been a forerunner in breaking down gender barriers in fashion. Long before unisex or gender-fluid clothing became mainstream, CdG was producing collections that blurred the lines between masculine and feminine clothing, emphasizing that fashion need not adhere to binary gender norms.
Comme des Garçons: Sub-brands and Collaborations
Comme des Garçons has expanded its influence through a variety of sub-brands and collaborations, each offering a different interpretation of the CdG ethos.
Comme des Garçons Play
CdG Play is perhaps the most commercially successful offshoot of the brand, recognized by its iconic heart logo with eyes, designed by Polish artist Filip Pagowski. CdG Play offers more casual, streetwear-inspired designs, including t-shirts, hoodies, and sneakers. Its collaboration with Converse on Chuck Taylor All Stars is especially popular and has achieved cult status.
Dover Street Market
Rei Kawakubo and her husband, Adrian Joffe, launched Dover Street Market in 2004, a high-end retail store that carries Comme des Garçons and other avant-garde designers. The store is known for its curated environment, where art, design, and fashion intersect. It has locations in London, New York, Tokyo, and other major cities, and remains a destination for fashion-forward consumers.
Conclusion
Comme des Garçons is not just a fashion brand—it’s a movement, a philosophy, and a form of art. Rei Kawakubo has consistently pushed the boundaries of what clothing can be, challenging traditional ideas of beauty, form, and function. Her work continues to inspire designers, artists, and fashion lovers worldwide. Whether through its conceptual runway shows, subversive designs, or successful collaborations, Comme des Garçons remains at the forefront of avant-garde fashion.
